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While we champion recycled materials wherever possible, the beautiful, characterful gemstones we love have to come from somewhere. And that place is the earth. The story of a gemstone, from its formation over millions of years to the moment it is unearthed, is a powerful one. But it’s a story that can have a dark side. The mining industry, particularly in small-scale and artisanal operations, can be fraught with challenges: unsafe working conditions, unfair pay, and environmental damage. We believe it’s not enough to simply turn a blind eye and buy the prettiest stones. We have a responsibility to look deeper, to understand the journey of our gems, and to use our buying power to support positive change. It’s about ensuring that the beauty of the stone on the surface is matched by the beauty of its story.
You’ll hear the term ‘conflict-free’ a lot, especially in relation to diamonds. The Kimberley Process is a certification scheme designed to prevent the trade of diamonds that fund conflict. We adhere to it without question. But for us, that is the absolute lowest bar. It’s the starting point, not the finish line. ‘Conflict-free’ simply means a gemstone didn’t fund a war. It doesn’t tell you anything about the person who mined it. Was that miner paid a fair wage? Did they have a safe environment to work in? Was the local community treated with respect? Was the surrounding environment protected? These are the questions that define truly ethical sourcing. We actively seek out suppliers who can provide us with answers to these questions, who can offer a level of traceability that goes far beyond a simple certificate. It means having honest, and sometimes difficult, conversations. It means choosing to work with suppliers who are as obsessed with provenance as we are.
A huge proportion of the world’s coloured gemstones are not mined by large, multinational corporations, but by small, independent, or family-run operations. These artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM) communities are often in remote, developing regions. When managed badly, these operations can be dangerous and exploitative. But when managed well, they can be a powerful force for good, providing a vital source of income and empowering local communities. This is where we believe we can make a difference. We choose to work with suppliers who are actively engaged in supporting these ASM communities. This can take many forms. It might mean they work with mines that have invested in proper safety equipment and training. It could be supporting operations that have built schools or clean water facilities for the local community. It might be a commitment to land rehabilitation, ensuring that mined areas are restored to their natural state. By specifically seeking out gems from these responsible sources, we are casting a vote with our money. We are sending a clear message to the industry that there is a market for stones that are not just beautiful, but are mined with dignity and respect for both people and planet.
The gemstone supply chain is famously complex, a tangled web that can stretch across continents. Achieving 100% traceability for every single stone is the ultimate goal, but it’s a huge challenge. Unlike our recycled metals, which come from a single UK refiner, our gems come from a variety of countries and mines. However, we are relentless in our pursuit of clarity. We are part of a growing movement within the jewellery industry that is demanding change. We are pushing our suppliers for more information, favouring those who can provide ‘mine-of-origin’ reports. We are excited by emerging technologies, like blockchain, that have the potential to create a secure, transparent digital ledger for a gemstone’s journey, from the moment it leaves the ground to the moment it is set in our workshop. We are not there yet, but we are moving in the right direction. We believe in progress, not perfection. And we believe that by supporting the good guys, by investing in responsible mines and ethical suppliers, we can be a small but meaningful part of building a fairer, more transparent, and more beautiful jewellery industry for everyone.
